We enjoyed every
inch of it.
Part of the way we skirted the hobs of the great witches' caldron
of Vesuvius. On this day the resident demons must have been
stirring their brew with special enthusiasm, for the smoky smudge
which always wreathes its lips had increased to a great billowy
plume that lay along the naked flanges of the devil mountain for
miles and miles. Now we would go puffing and panting through some
small outlying environ of the city. Always the principal products
of such a village seemed to be young babies and macaroni drying
in the sun. I am still reasonably fond of babies, but I date my
loss of appetite for imported macaroni from that hour. Now we
would emerge on a rocky headland and below us would be the sea,
eternally young and dimpling like a maiden's cheek; but the crags
above were eternally old and all gashed with wrinkles and seamed
with folds, like the jowls of an ancient squaw. Then for a distance
we would run right along the face of the cliff. Directly beneath
us we could see little stone huts of fishermen clinging to the
rocks just above high-water mark, like so many gray limpets; and
then, looking up, we would catch a glimpse of the vineyards, tucked
into man-made terraces along the upper cliffs, like bundled herbs
on the pantry shelves of a thrifty housewife; and still higher up
there would be orange groves and lemon groves and dusty-gray olive
groves.
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