"I cannot tell the half of the strange pleasures and thoughts that come
about me at the sight of that old tower; for, in some sort, it is the
epitome of all that makes the continent of Europe interesting, as
opposed to new countries; and, above all, it completely expresses that
agedness in the midst of active life which binds the old and the new
into harmony. We in England have our new streets, our new inn, our green
shaven lawn, and our piece of ruin emergent from it--a mere specimen of
the middle ages put on a bit of velvet carpet to be shown; and which,
but for its size, might as well be on a museum shelf at once, under
cover:--but, on the Continent, the links are unbroken between the past
and present; and, in such use as they can serve for, the grey-headed
wrecks are suffered to stay with men; while, in unbroken line, the
generations of spared buildings are seen succeeding, each in its place.
And thus, in its largeness, in its permitted evidence of slow decline,
in its poverty, in its absence of all pretence, of all show and care for
outside aspect, that Calais tower has an infinite of symbolism in it,
all the more striking because usually seen in contrast with English
scenes expressive of feelings the exact reverse of these."
At Tergnier we alighted for dinner, being allowed twenty minutes for
five courses and dessert.
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